Cité de l’Amitié – Groupe Ausia (Michel Benoit, Jean De Salle, Thierry Verbist) – 1969-1978

Every time I’m exploring this city it keeps surprising me. Usually through constructions I come across on my trips that then take me a lot of effort to know more about. But sometimes it goes the other way around. This housing project came onto my radar through researching interesting housing complexes in Brussels. Marked it on my “to explore” map and kinda forgot about it. Until a trip through the eastern border of Brussels made me make a detour to check what this mysterious mark on my map was all about.

Amplified by it’s air of “spaceship dropped into an unsuspecting neighbourhood” it left me in awe when I finally saw it in real life. I have developed a love for 60s and 70s architecture that hasn’t forgotten the core ideas of modernism and tries to update them. Architecture that evolves through incorporating new insights rather than embellishing bad ideas like post-modernism did far too often.

One of the biggest new ideas here was to mix people with disabilities with able-bodied people. Building for everyone so that people with a physical disability aren’t discriminated is still not common practice. My own experiences with managing public building projects have made it clear that even the best architects forget or struggle with a thoroughly inclusive design. So it was a big surprise to discover such an ambitious public housing project thought up in the late 1960s. Certainly because the ambition goes far beyond who this project was meant for. The urbanistic and architectural decisions go well past what was common back then (or even now). Read more about it in this remarkably extensive article on the Brussels heritage inventory.

Aesthetically it is a child of its time but with a exceptional attention for detail and it has aged far better than a lot of its contemporaries. Currently the buildings are being renovated but if the few images I found are anything to go by it will lose part of its character like with so many updates to get old buildings in line with current energetic norms. Another planned upgrade, which looks more promising, is the masterplan for the surroundings.

About the architects I haven’t found much more than another, similar housing project in Woluwé listed in the inventory. Apparently the office moved its activities to France shortly after the Woluwé projects. Can’t say I’m as much in awe with the projects listed on their as I am with the Cité de l’Amitié. But architectural practices rarely age well in my opinion.

Well, this is well worth the trip and perfect to combine with the Alma campus of the UCL, which is a treat on itself with the contemporary and not dissimilar work of Lucien Kroll and other bits of interesting architecture.

Terdelt Garden City, Schaarbeek.

The only garden city styled social housing in Schaarbeek, as far as I know. A mix of vernacular and art deco architecture and a mix of single-family houses and apartment buildings. The first having been privatized over the years with the multi-family housing still managed by Le Foyer Schaerbeekois and currently being renovated. The single houses have been adapted to the tastes of their owners and I must say I like this part the best. The already diversified range of buildings lends itself perfectly for the wide array of changes made, from reasonable updates to keep up with the times to kitsch and whimsy aesthetically expressions. Only when someone thinks his or her contemporary good taste should be expressed by painting the whole house in an anthracite colour it feels wrong to me but that’s just my personal adversity towards the contemporary and misguided idea of grey being the architecturally correct colour. It’s also hard, at times, to pinpoint where the garden city ends and the city around it starts. Unity trough diversity.

 

I always think it is a form of misplaced arrogance when an architect tells people how they should live and how their surroundings should look for eternity. The fact that gentle nudges away from the conformity don’t disturb the whole too much here makes me think this concept is far more durable than some siedlungs or other grouped housing projects by the grand architects that have suffered more from their rigidity in style than their sometimes experimental building techniques. Probably swearing in the church of conservationists here.

The apartment buildings who have deviated far less from their original look (and which are being restored one by one) feel more Bokrijk than modern housing. Which has some charm too but not as much as the privatized parts of this neighbourhood. The cars, that annoy me everywhere, are really irritating here. The pictorial roads and squares are disturbed by way too many cars taking up space that could be used to enhance life in such a densely populated area.

This garden city was originally designed by Charles Roulet, who took over from the actual winner of the competition, a certain Moenaert, that was launched to find an architect. Inaugurated in 1926 but the construction continued until 1931. As always situated on the outskirts of the city (Evere is literally one street beyond), somewhere between the municipal graveyard and the fields back then. Housing the poor far enough from the bourgeoisie was already a trend in those days. Nowadays all around it is urbanized and only the street signs will hint you to being in a different municipality.

My daily lockdown walks through the neighbourhood.

As some of you will have noticed I’ve been posting buildings I’ve come across on my daily morning walks through my neighbourhood on Instagram. To keep the muscles from atrophying and getting my bread but making them interesting at the same times. Not posting them on here because often I have little else than a photo to share.

I’ve added a layer to the map that goes with this blog too with all the buildings I discover on those walks on it in a separate layer.

Studio House (1965) | Rue des Ailes 71, 1030 Schaarbeek | Louis Van Hove.

This is a house with a history. Originally built by Victor Horta for sculptor Godefroid Devreese, the one of that vase on Avenue Louis-Bertrand in Schaarbeek, in 1894. He himself did some minor alterations to the building in 1935 and after his death in 1941 the new owner, also a sculptor called Eugène De Bremaecker, remodeled it more thoroughly with architect Franz Hartjens.

The most drastic rebuilding happened in 1965 when another sculptor, Raymond Huyberechts, bought the house and asked architect Louis Van Hove to redesign it to the Brutalist masterpiece it still is today. This sculptor’s most well-known work is probably the iconic NATO star that has graced the entrance of the old headquarters from 1971 to 2016 after which they moved it to the new building across the street.

Louis Van Hove on the other hand is one of the founders of Group Structures who are, in Brussels, infamous for their participation n some of the most bold acts of late Modernism / Bruxellisation. Some examples being the Philips Tower on Boulevard Asnpach, Hotel Sheraton on Place Roger, the CCN next to the Nord station and the first 2 towers of the WTC complex which are currently all being rebuilt or about to.

The boldness of this building is a far greater success than most of the examples above. With scale being as firm reason for that. Proudly Brutalist and, at the same time, almost contemporary in its minimalism. Would love to see the interior as it should be more of the same and it’s where the only part of the original building still standing, the wooden trusses, are.

Holiday Camps on the Belgian coast.

Driven by an ambition to prove everyone claiming the Belgian coastline is an architectural wasteland wrong I extend my trips way out west every now and then. Gathering evidence for my statement it is well worth taking train and tram to explore that part of Belgium with a focus on modernist heritage. What makes those trips connected to what I’m doing on this blog is that the architects that have designed much of the most interesting buildings there have a strong link with Brussels or have constructed a considerable part of their oeuvre in my city. As a start of a little series I will highlight 3 holiday camps that still exist, all built by architects that have realized some of their main work in Brussels.

We start in Oostduinkerke, a borough of Koksijde, where Antoine Courtens’ Pro Juventute still stands albeit not in prime shape. Now a surfing school surrounded by villa’s it started as an institute aimed at elevating the youth physically, morally as well as intellectually. Those were the days. Built by the Foundation Louis Empain pour la Santé de l’Enfance in 1939 and designed by frequent collaborator of the Empain dynasty Antoine Courtens. For Empain he built an holiday resort called L’Estérel in Laurentides, Quebec and several garden cities in Marcinelle (1955), Marseille, France (1958) and Frascati, Italy (1959). In Brussels his most well-known works are the apartment building Palais de la Folle Chanson in Ixelles, Gésu church near Botanique and House Haerens in Uccle, both built in 1928 in a far more art deco style. With the Polak family he also designed the COOVI / CERIA campus in Anderlecht, adding another Empain-link to the list.

Pro Juventide became De Sinjoorkes when the socialist health service took over the building in 1958 and it slowly evolved into a social tourism center until that closed its doors in 2008.


Second stop on the trip is on the other side of Oostduinkerke city center, near Nieuwpoort, where Lucien Engels built a modernist building for the Nationale Unie van Neutrale Mutualiteiten holiday camps in 1962. Next to his now demolished masterpiece Home Emile Vandervelde II. Most of the pavilions surroundings the main building are gone but what’s left still serves a similar function.

Lucien Engels’ work is mostly situated in Vilvoorde and will certainly be studied in detail in another post on this blog. In Brussels his main buildings are the outpatient clinic César De Paepe (nowadays hardly recognizable) on the Cellebroers street (1961) and the office building for the Brabant federation of the socialist health insurance on the rue du Midi (1973).

Lucien Engels | Nationale Unie van Neutrale Mutualiteiten holiday camp (1932)
Lucien Engels | Nationale Unie van Neutrale Mutualiteiten holiday camp (1932)

Last stop on this trip is another building built by the socialist movement. This time by their Charleroi branch. Hence the name Pays de Charleroi. Now a private school and renovated, this pre-war modernist building by Gaston Brunfaut (1935) still stands proudly among the dunes. Although Brunfaut is a well-known name in Brussels architecture Gaston might be the less familiar one one among the Jules, Maximes and Fernands. Gaston was the most pure modern one of the family and built, among many houses, the Jules Bordet institute in Brussels and social housing near De Wand and in Evere.

A good reason to visit Oostduinkerke. There are longer walks to be expected in further posts but as a starter a little stroll through the dunes should do. Check the instagram for photos of the referenced works in Brussels and more in the days to come.

Random selection of remarkable houses.

As an extra push to go on long walks through the city, now the weather is no excuse anymore, a selection of remarkable houses I’ve spotted last few weeks and months. It can also serve as an amuse to what’s to come if I find some time to write more elaborate posts.

Canal rejuvenation.

The Brussels canal zone has been hot for some time now and for different reasons. Some wanted to clean it up because they saw it as a breeding ground for terrorists, some wanted to insert a big fancy museum to make go all Guggenheim Bilbao and let gentrification do the work and some, like the Brussels bouwmeester, try to mould it through architectural interventions part of an overall urban plan. In typical local fashion it is a bit of everything. For now I won’t digress about the Jan Jambon all-stars cleaning up of the ghetto nor the undeniable surge in getting bourgie bourgie of the area around Kanal (my love for disco music kinda getting away from me here) but I’ll expand about the lesser mediatized projects that I think are actual improvements. Most of them rather modest and additions to their industrial surroundings, not snobbish newcomers looking down on what was already present.

It also gives me the opportunity to talk about fairly recent architecture. Something I don’t exclude from this blog but isn’t obvious to include because it is quite hard to spot in this city. For three reasons. Firstly because we have only just begun to put quality before finance when it comes to larger scale construction and remarkable architecture has been confined to mostly small, private projects the past few decades. As these private buildings often aren’t well-publicized it can be hard to find the necessary information to write about them. The last reason for the scarceness of contemporary architecture is that a lot of it is renovations of interiors and the backs of buildings which isn’t visible and thus hard to illustrate with photos from the street level.

All the projects I’ll highlight can be seen walking up the Rue Dieudonné Lefèvre from the Avenue du Port but wandering off into the side streets is highly recommended.

The first one is the construction materials village, between the Avenue du Port and the Vergote dock by TETRA architecten taken into use in 2018. A simple but effective host to a program that often gets cheap housing with little attention for its setting. Proof that industrial buildings don’t need to look like giant metal tents.

A little further down the avenue you’ll see a giant artwork by Philippe Van Snick that adds a dash of colour to the otherwise grey area. Inaugurated in 2014. A multicolour screen that limits the TIR-complex behind it. The same artist will be responsible for the integrated art in the new headquarters of the Flemish broadcasting company VRT by Robbrecht & Daem with dierendonckblancke, one of the many interesting buildings that should see the light soon in Brussels.

Up Rue Lefèvre you’ll first find the greenbizz.brussels building by architectesassoc, completed in 2016. An environmental incubator with a very peculiar wooden facade and love for triangles. Again proof industrial shouldn’t be an architectural synonym for bland, something the older buildings in the neighbourhood will tell you just as loudly. Somewhere in between the late 50’s and now we forgot there’s more to building than function and finance.

The next two projects are schools. The well-integrated St-Ursula elementary school and kindergarten by Studio Thys Vermeulen, completed in 2009, and De Haven another school and kindergarten by OSK-AR, completed in 2015. Schools being one of the more traditional strong holds of quality architecture in this city.

We end our little trip at the Byrrh building. An old liquor warehouse currently being transformed into a business centre for sustainable food that some will be called “Be-Here”. Apparently no-one thought that was an awful idea. Luckily this old, slightly art deco / orientalist, interbellum complex has been treated with more imagination and slowly gets its former glory back.

Apartment building (1938) | Charles Woestelaan 140, 1090 Jette | Raphaël Delville.

Sometimes it’s frustratingly difficult to find basic information about buildings that are far from basic in areas that are richly provided with quality architecture. Avenue Charles Woeste in Jette is one long sequence of prime interbellum architecture, mostly art deco but with a few fine modernist gems squeezed in between them. There’s the Withuis by Joseph Diongre that was for sale not that long ago and other beauties by prominent architects like Victor Bourgeois, Paul Amaury Michel and Paul Hankar or lesser gods like Jos Eelens or Jos Bal. Most of them, with a few exceptional ones among them, aren’t detailed in the online heritage inventory nor mentioned in many books. Which is a shame.

One of them intrigued me especially. Because it is so majestic and slightly out of scale with the rest of the avenue. It’s an almost Parisian art deco apartment building with hints of modernism and streamline style that feels a bit lost so far out of the city centre. It frustrated me that I couldn’t find who designed it when it was clearly fine enough to not be by a just any architect. My first guess was René Ajoux as it reminded me of his similar design along les étangs d’Ixelles but I couldn’t find any mention of it in literature about him that I consulted in archives. Something I would love to do more often but, as this is not my day job, rarely find time for.

It was Vlan, an immo magazine well-known to anyone searching for property in Brussel, that came to the rescue. In an ad for a flat in this building the seller was friendly enough to mention it was by Raphaël Delville and built in 1938. Not sure it got him extra potential buyers but I’m grateful. Raphaël Delville shouldn’t be unknown to connoisseurs of Brussels interbellum architecture nor readers of this blog, with a few remarkable contributions to this city’s heritage in his oeuvre. Little is written about the man though, outshined by his much better known father. This blog comes up far to high in a Google search about him making it one of the rare times I’m disappointed about appearing prominently in such a list.

I’ve added some pictures of other fine buildings on Avenue Woeste, some in the hope a reader can fill in the missing details.

3 buildings by Georges De Hens.

One of the reasons last months have been quiet on this blog had as a lovely side effect that I’m seeing different parts of Brussels now. What stayed the same is me wandering off and discovering bits of the city. A rather big such bit I’m slowly discovering is Auderghem. One of the 19 municipalities that make up the Brussels region and probably the one I knew least about until recently. Turns out it experienced a firm growth sprout post WW II which is, per usual, poorly documented and thus underappreciated but has plenty to offer a fan of modernist architecture.

Seasoned aficionado’s of local architecture surely know Lucien Kroll’s own house can be found in Auderghem and the brutalist fiends among them will tell you the city hall deserves a visit, if only for the Jacques Moeschal sculpture in front of it. All true but my current favourites are 2 apartment buildings by Georges De Hens. One of the many architects who left their mark on Brussels and Belgium last century but haven’t been honoured by much literature covering their oeuvre.

One of his best known designs, if maybe not because of its architecture, are the buildings for the Transports Internationaux Routiers et Entrepôts de Bruxelles near the canal and Tours & Taxis. Locally known as “TIR” and most impressive because of the multilevel heavy traffic that it hosts. Personally I’ve got a thing for the metal artwork hanging on one of its facades. A joyous expression of 50s optimism you can barely see without trespassing. Which is a shame.

The same brilliance and unashamed modernism can be seen on avenue Emile Lebon in Auderghem. Both buildings (numbers 35 and 101) by this architect are exquisite examples of architecture built with the enthusiasm generated by the world fair of 1958. Both richly decorated with contemporary art and both making good use of their corner position. Two little known modernist buildings that should be cherished.

The first building I ever discovered by Georges De Hens is a house in Schaarbeek. Built between the two world wars but already firmly modernist and remarkable enough to be among the best in Brussels. All reason enough to dedicate a book, expo or study to the man’s life and work. I want to know and discover more about him.

Atelier Olivier Strebelle (1954-1958), Villa Urvater (1960) and one other villa (1955) by André Jacqmain.

Having been struck by the individuality of his buildings, intrigued reading about his oeuvre, actually visiting one truly convinced me of the qualities the qualities the former experiences only hinted at. Walking through the house and atelier of Olivier Strebelle, during the Brussels Biennale of Modern Architecture last October, made the architectural qualities on a deeply human scale (even if sometimes underestimating the height of people) palpable. It also confirmed me in my belief great architecture doesn’t need grand gestures. The building, constructed in 2 fazes during the ’50s, almost literally fades away in his surroundings and shows inside a modesty that could be mistaken for banality if it wasn’t for the unescapable but subtle spatial quality that makes you feel what great architecture is about. Every word about it falls short compared to the actual experience.

Something that will maybe be easier to enjoy in the future. Sadly because Olivier Strebelle passed away in July 2017 after a 90 years long and colourful life. Luckily his family and friends won’t sell the primely located property but are trying to convert it honouring the artist’s work and heritage.

If you’re in the neighbourhood do take time for a walk. Uccle and Sint-Genesius-Rode are rich cities both literally as from an architectural point of view. Something not entirely unrelated. 2 more André Jacqmain houses, possible to admire without trespassing heavily guarded properties, are nearby. The first one a sparsely documented villa built in 1955. An early example of brutalist architecture with even earlier post-modern touches.

The second one, Villa Urvater, is far more famous and one of the major works by André Jacqmain. Designed for diamantaire and art collector Bertie Urvater, who only briefly lived here, it is a very remarkable building unlike much else in Brussels, Belgium or even internationally. Almost a sculpture in itself, it is Jacqmain’s non-conformism at its finest and most extreme. A masterpiece that deserves far more renown but in good shape and listed. After years serving as the Congolese embassy and even being threatened with demolition (it is after all a prime real estate location) it is now renovated and 2 additional villa’s, designed by Atelier d’architecture de Genval the office founded by André Jacqmain but mainly responsible for far less exceptional architecture, were built on the estate.

But do wander around a little further, it will make you discover more I’ll might talk about in the future.

Addresses:
Atelier Olivier Strebelle, Avenue Dolez 586 – 1180 Uccle | André Jacqmain and Jules Wabbes (1954-1958)
House, Rue de Percke 70 – 1180 Uccle | André Jacqmain (1955)
Villa Urvater, Lequimelaan 59 – 1640 Sint-Genesius-Rode – André Jacqmain (1960)